divided and diminshed

In Kerala, south India, there have been descendants of Jews who fled Israel for almost 1000 years. In the 16th century, European Jews fleeing the inquisition joined them. India, being generally religiously tolerant, welcomed both groups.

However, within the Jewish communities, this mix created a racial divide in the state, between so called “white Jews” (the Europeans, also known as Paradesi Jews) and the “black Jews” (also referred to as Ernakulam Jews, due to the location of most of their homes in a part of town called Ernakulam). Even though it is historically proven that the Ernakulam Jews arrived before the Paradesi Jews, the Paradesis still claim 'firstness'. They also accuse the Ernakulam Jews of being descendants of slaves, and thus not religiously pure. The Paradesi Jews went so far as to bar the Ernakulam Jews from praying in their synagogue, and outlawing intermarriage.

This divide has lasted until this day. Although the Ernakulam Jews were finally allowed to pray in the Paradesi synagogue as of about fifty years ago, the groups-made up of 29 jews in total– are still very much separate; coming together only to pray at major religious events. Like in other parts of india, most of the population has left for Israel.

Jewtown, as the Jewish neighborhood in Kochi is called, is one of the most popular tourist spots in Kerala.

Gravestones from the Paradesi Cemetery are placed along the outside of the Paradesi Synagogue, constant reminders of a past that is quickly escaping.

Sarah Cohen is one of the last remaining Paradesi Jews. She lives next door to the shop she runs. She sells handmade embroidery products.

A temporary Chabad house has opened for the High Holidays next door to Sarah's house, to offer services to visitors. They are not sure how many people to expect. Here, the Lubavitch Rebbe (the late leader of the Chabad movement) is pictured.

Jewtown shuts down for the night. As the tourist shops close around 6 pm, the street suddenly empties.

"I built a dream home for my children. And then they left. Avital was here 6 months, Leya 12. I built it for them". Babu Elias stands in his home in Ernakulam.

Ritual hand-washing station in the Paradesi Synagogue, which is now only used for certain holidays.

A wedding photograph lies on the windowsill of a Jewish home, vacated in the last decade as its owners died or left for Israel. The ground floor of the house now serves as the temporary Chabad house.

Queenie, one of the remaining Paradesi Jews, and her helper on their way to the Paradesi services for Kol Nidrei, the services on the eve of Yom Kippur, the holiest day of the Jewish calendar.

The Mala Syngagoue, about 25 kilometers outside of Kochi, has been stripped of all its furniture. One can only recognize it as a synagogue by the Hebrew writing above one door.

Tourists take pictures on Synagogue Lane in Jewtown, in front of a sign advertising the temporary Chabad house.

The Mala Synagogue outside of Kochi needs to be opened by a government official. It is otherwise closed to the public.